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To
me, Silicone is the best molding material available, it picks up incredible
detail and you can cast almost anything in it!
For
this Project, I chose Smooth-On Max-30
condensation
cure silicone.
This
is real neat stuff! it has a shore of 30A (soft) and it has what they call
"a knotty tear propagation", (if the rubber is torn, the tears quickly
terminates in a "knot" reducing further mold damage)... Cool, Huh?
After
completing the sculpture, I take one final "idiot" check (I learned this
term from working in the film industry, it means "... check again, some
idiot may have forgotten something...").
Silicone
picks up EVERY detail, so you want to make sure your sculpture is perfect.
Always
mix your components as per the manufactures specifications.
What
I've learned is, it's not the speed of mixing, but the quality of the way
you stir, making sure you scrape the sides and bottom while mixing. I then
pour the mixed batch of silicone in a fresh container and re-stir again,
this guarantees that your batch is perfectly mixed and you don't wind-up
with some uncured spots.
I
start by brushing in the silicone in all the "nooks and crannies", it's
always best to brush in a thin coat and letting that set-up, then add several
coats building up the surface. This technique is better than adding a thick
mixture and getting a lot of air bubbles (photo - 9).
Once
the silicone has cured, I add a clay wall. This will help me create the
front half of the plaster mother mold (photo - 10).

Photo - 9
Photo - 10
The mother mold...
With
the front half completed, I'm now ready to start the back section (photo
- 11). What I've used to create the mother mold is Smooth-On
Matrix-G. This is a specially formulated
resin plaster composite. You use this stuff with fiberglass in a laminating
fashion the same way you would use polyester resins and fiberglass, the
only difference is that it has no toxic fumes or harsh odors, you would still
use a dust mask when working with the powders.
You
will notice that there are no "keys" to line-up the other part of the mother
mold, the reason is that, I don't really need them. The way I did my wall,
following the highest points on the mold in a curve fashion, creates a
full "key" (photo - 12).

Photo - 11
Photo - 12
The
back half of the mother mold is now completed and removed. With proper
lighting, you can see Bill's face (photo - 13).
Opening
the silicone mold and stretching it this way can be hazardous. The blue
arrow is pointing at where I stopped cutting the silicone to remove the
casting. Chances are, the cut would have continued and this is what they
mean by "a knotty tear propagation", that prevents it from tearing any
farther.
This
is the finished casting pulled from the silicone mold (photo - 14). This
piece is also made of Smooth-On Matrix-G
and
laminated the same as the mother mold, except I used chopped fiberglass.

Photo - 13
Photo - 14
A perfect reproduction, every detail is there (photo - 15). The only damage the clay sculpture sustained from the molding process was the ear tips (arrow).
Photo - 15
Guy Louis-XVI SFX
2137 Hubbard Crescent,
Ottawa, Ontario.
K1J 6L3
Canada
613-748-7877
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